Odyssey Notes

Tales, Wisdom & Misadventures of Leading an Outrageously Courageous Life

Tim Buxton 21/6/15 Tim Buxton 21/6/15

Tim’s Birthday Bash

It was pool party time at our home in Soran to celebrate Tim’s birthday. What a great excuse to cool off and indulge in some of the finest chocolate brownie sundaes this side of Middle East.

Happy Birthday Tim!

Tim Buxton 13/8/14 Tim Buxton 13/8/14

Want to Learn More about the Kurds and Kurdistan?

Today, the eyes of the entire world are now looking at the semi-autonomous region known as Kurdistan. The Kurds here have long sought independence from Iraq and over the last few decades - and with a little help from the US and the West - they have proven that they are more than capable of managing their own affairs.

Their determination to become a self-governing, peaceful, prosperous and tolerant democracy is a reality that is garnering well deserved international attention. Their fight against the infamous IS terrorist advance is also proving to the world the courage of the Peshmerga (Kurdish Army) forces despite being out-gunned and under-resourced.

**PHOTO:** Iraqi Kurdistan is home for six million ethnic Kurds. (AFP: Safin Hamed)

**PHOTO:** The modern Peshmerga evolved from the Kurdish guerrilla forces that spent decades fighting Saddam Hussein.(AFP: Karim Sahib)

Thankfully the US military is providing the Peshmerga with air-suport and intelligence giving them a fighting chance to secure and reinforce the Kurdistan region and remain the beacon of hope and freedom that seems all too rare here in the Middle East.

I stumbled across this article online from ABC News Australia... and I thought it was worth a read if you are interested in learning more about Kurdistan and the Iraqi Kurds.

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2014-08-12/iraq-crisis-who-are-the-kurds/

Join with me in praying for the humanitarian crisis in Northern Iraq. Pray also for the Peshmerga as they battle the IS terrorists head on... they are truly critical to ensuring a secure Kurdistan region that can tend to the desperate needs of the millions of refugees/IDP's fleeing the violence.

Thanks for Journeying with us - Tim Buxton

Tim Buxton 8/8/14 Tim Buxton 8/8/14

ISIS, IRAQ & IRBIL - An Update from the Buxton Family

Since waking up we have been inundated by emails and messages of concern surrounding the terrible situation taking place here in Northern Iraq. We are so grateful for all of you that care deeply about our safety and are praying for us and the ISIS threat.

As we read and watch the news today we are - and have been ever since our arrival - profoundly saddened by the suffering, persecution and brutality that ISIS have been inflicting on innocent civilians here in Northern Iraq.

We are heartened by the news that today the United States will be taking humanitarian action now, in addition to military air strikes against ISIS should they continue an advance towards the city of Erbil.

This threat from ISIS is by no means a recent threat, it has been growing for quite some time now. Since controlling almost a third of Syria through their brutal jihadist campaign of killing and fear mongering they have now made significant gains in Iraq.

As of today they have taken control of the key cities of Fallujah, Tikrit & Mosul. In the process, millions of Iraqi & Syrian civilians have fled from their advance, the vast majority have taken refuge in the Kurdistan region of Iraq where we live.

Today ISIS and their absolute barbaric assault on Christian and Yezhidi minorities is making headlines. Their strict enforcement of Sharia law and the forced conversion of non-Muslims - or face certain death by execution - is filling up my Facebook feed, and quite possibly yours too.

It is just sickening to read all the reports, we just want ISIS and their jihadist advance to end. What is happening right now is nothing short of evil in every sense of the word.

As a family we have been watching things closely ever since we arrived here in Northern Iraq. In fact, we landed the very same day that Mosul fell to ISIS fighters, just 30 miles from the city of Erbil.

Greetings to all our friends and family around the world...

It is just sickening to read all the reports, we just want ISIS and their jihadist advance to end. What is happening right now is nothing short of evil in every sense of the word.

We live in the North-eastern town of Soran, which is a 2+ hour drive from Erbil. Their are three mountain ranges and several army checkpoints that separate us from Erbil city.

We feel safe here in Soran, but I must say we do have concerns about traveling to Erbil until we get a better idea on what things are really like from a security standpoint.

In fact we were in Erbil just 2 days ago buying food and supplies, but didn't really notice anything abnormal.. no obvious panic, but we being foreigners probably wouldn't be the first to pick up on anything.

We have been in constant communication with our co-oworkers about possible evacuation paths, most likely through Turkey. We are assuming that flights from Erbil - which have been on & off lately - would not be a safe or an easy option as any threat would most likely come from the Erbil direction.

We certainly have our finger on the pulse here and are getting ready to do whatever is necessary should things get worse. We have been following news stories and get daily reports and inside information from our Kurdish friends who have family members fighting with the Kurdish Army (Peshmerga).

Kurdish Army with President of Kurdistan - Barzani

Advance into Kurdistan by ISIS would be a potential game changer, as the Peshmerga has provided the only real opposition towards the ISIS fighters. The Peshmerga are a considerably large and brave army, but they still lack important weapons and resources and do not have an air force. Support from the US is therefore critical in enabling the Kurdish Army to hold back and defeat ISIS.

Like you, we are waiting to see what impact the US & Kurdish forces are able to have on this terrorizing ISIS advance. Whilst we will be making necessary decisions to evacuate should we feel in any way threatened by ISIS, right now we are considering ways that we can respond to the humanitarian crisis that is unfolding.

Because of the relative distance & difficulty in getting to our town, Soran, we have only seen a small number of refugees here, but, many more are sure to make their way here. There are also hundreds of Kurdish families welcoming relatives into their homes here, having fled from Mosul and surrounding areas.

Until we feel that it is unsafe for us to remain here in Northern Iraq we are looking and seeking God for ways that we can help.

Please pray for the displaced, persecuted and suffering people of Iraq & Syria.
Please pray that we would be able to provide meaningful support and care for those that have been displaced by ISIS.
Pray also for the brave Kurdish Army, many of whom are our neighbors, retired and elderly Peshmerga or just ordinary civilians taking up arms. I’ll never forget driving down the road and seeing the kind man who had installed our window screens just days earlier, now dressed in army clothing and waiting to get picked up and taken to the front lines to fight.
Pray for the world leaders to take the necessary action to avert continued suffering and mass killings. Entire people groups (both religious and cultural minorities) and the lives of innocent people are at risk right now. I can’t think of a more effective way forward than for US and other world powers to support the Kurdish government and their efforts.

We firmly believe that God deeply cares and that He has all sovereign power to bring peace and justice. We ultimately look for Him to intervene.

Would you join us as we pray and respond?

Tim & Sarah Buxton

But let justice roll on like a river, righteousness like a never-failing stream. (Amos 5:24)

Tim Buxton 28/7/14 Tim Buxton 28/7/14

Jazhntan Piroz Bet!

For the next 3 days we will be celebrating Jazhn by visiting neighbours and friends to mark the end of Ramadan -- a holiday also known as the "sugar holiday".

Elliana had a blast going from house to house collecting sweets.. Meanwhile, I've had my fair share of sweets and downed at least 10 Pepsi's, Fanta's and chai in the last 2 hours!!!

What fun it is to join in this Muslim holiday... As we go we pray for the Prince of Peace to fill their hearts and homes!

Tim Buxton 18/7/14 Tim Buxton 18/7/14

A Ramadan Way of Life

So much has happened here since my last blog post that I could have easily have written an entry every day, despite being sufficiently sleep deprived. As it stands it is 2am as I begin writing this update.. and so I will attempt to be brief.

What you must understand however is that I am just joining in with 90% of Soran who is most likely wide awake in the Bazaar or in their homes as I write. And in more ways than one we have certainly become well acquainted with the Ramadan way of life.

We got thunder, lightning and rain in July... almost unheard of!

In short, during Ramadan, which falls during the ninth month of the Islamic year, observant Muslims abstain from eating, drinking and smoking from sunrise to sunset.

This holiday commemorates the period when Muhammad is said to have received the first recitations of the Quran from Allah via the angel Gabriel.

We quickly learnt that people will sleep during the day and feast and work and socialize into the wee hours of the morning.

During the first week of Ramadan we had a plumber in our home working until 1:45am. We have had several water deliveries between 1am and 3am. And just this week we had blinds installed in our home at 11pm.

Watching the sun rise from my roof-top as the water filled my tanks!!

Good thing is I am a night owl and so it hasn’t been too difficult to be up so late… I just wish our sweet children would allow us to sleep in past 5:30am.

During Ramadan there are many Muslims whose hearts are truly seeking God. Would you join with us in prayer that Jesus would reveal Himself to them in a life-changing way!

Thanks for journeying with us,

Tim

Tim Buxton 29/6/14 Tim Buxton 29/6/14

A Surprisingly Hectic & Productive Day

On the last day before Ramadan fasting kicks in we managed to have one of the most productive work days setting up our house...!

A quiet day soon becomes buzzing with activity... Pictured are the kitchen installers, plumber and my landlord.

With the Summer heat beginning to really kick in and everyone in town on the verge of spending their days depriving themselves of food and water (some refusing to swallow their own spit!), we knew we needed to get as much accomplished as possible in the days leading up to Ramadan. I just never thought it would happen just like this - out of nowhere and in such flurry of activity.

Fifteen minutes before heading out the door to have some good 'ole fellowship with a few other "ex-pat" families in Soran, I got a phone call saying that the plumber was at the house ready to install our toilets. Now this was an opportunity I didn't want to miss... an operational toilet was essential before moving in!

The only problem was that we had no power at our house. It would be another 2 hours before we would gain power again since we were not yet hooked up to the back up community generator. And so just as the plumber was about to leave the house I got another phone call that our kitchen cabinets were on the way over... 1 day ahead of schedule!

Our kitchen cabinets arrive 1 day ahead of schedule

Now I was starting to feel a mix of emotions -- happy (things were happening) and somewhat at a loss (without power any further progress just seemed impossible). The plumber checked out and was planning to come back later in the afternoon. The cabinet maker, on the other hand, swung into action and started prepping everything in anticipation for the power to come back on.

We took a trip to the Bazaar in town to pick up an important drill bit that was necessary to pierce the delicate tile that lined the kitchen wall. The more I talked with the cabinet maker (through broken English & Kurdish), the more I started to really like this guy. Not only was he excellent at what he did, you could tell he had a kind heart and an incredible work ethic.

Installing the kitchen cabinets like a master cabinet maker!

We made it back to the house and 20 minutes later.. wallah... we had power. All I can say is that I have never seen a kitchen so articulately put together in such a short period of time. He truly was amazing... Don't worry, I'll reveal the final product tomorrow when I get the chance to snap a good photo.

Not only did my new "cabinet maker" friend install a beautiful kitchen for my lovely Sarah, he helped install our swamp cooler, our oven and treated me to an amazing kebab feast at his uncle's kebab shop. Not to mention the impromptu tour of his cabinet making factory and a short visit to his home to eat some fresh tomatoes from his garden. And what an amazing home and garden, complete with a stunning water-feature and lawn area.

Sarah having the time of her life designing her new kitchen 2 weeks ago... most homes are completed without any kitchen cabinets (or blinds, carpets, fans and air-conditioners etc..)

After meeting his family and hearing some moving stories of how Saddam Hussein's war against the Kurds impacted his father and relatives, I felt truly honored for our family to be invited over to his home for dinner one night in the next week or so. Our first invitation into a Kurdish home since arriving here in Soran -- I was blown away.

What was also remarkable about this day was the fact that the plumber did indeed return to install our toilets, meanwhile Billy and our landlord were working hard to hook us up to the back up community generator. Although one of the toilets still needs a little more work tomorrow, I just couldn't believe that we would get so much done in just one day!

Our goal of moving into our home tomorrow is unbelievably obtainable. We have truly been amazed by the goodness of God and his unfathomable favor and grace towards us. We can't wait to be finally in our own home. We poor vagabonds have been blessed beyond measure with a beautiful home, wonderful neighbors and a bunch of new friends along the way.

To all of you who are praying for us and supporting our efforts, we feel truly grateful. We just can't wait to see how God uses our home to be a blessing to the beautiful people of Kurdistan.

Thanks for journeying with us - Tim

Tim Buxton 25/6/14 Tim Buxton 25/6/14

What would you do for 30 liters of Fuel?

It’s hard to believe that fuel would be so scarce in such an oil rich region. With fighting in the south of Iraq continuing and Kurdistan's main provider of refined oil - the Baiji Oil Refinery - under attack, we are certainly feeling the pinch.

Desperate Times Call for Desperate Measures

Why not just hunker down and ride it out? Good point, Turkey has agreed to begin fulfilling Kurdistan’s fuel needs with shipments arriving as early as the end of the week. Only problem is that we need to urgently travel to Erbil to formally apply for our residency visas. That means we need enough fuel to get there and back, plus a little extra for driving around the city.

So, after getting word that a gas station had opened up for business in a town 20 minutes away, several of us jumped in our cars and raced through the gorge pass that takes you there as though we were in a presidential convoy.

For some it was a suicide mission, with only enough fuel to make it there - failure to find fuel and their car would be spending the night.

Good news, our communications proved reliable. The line was long, but it was moving ever so slowly. My prediction was a 2 hour wait… a long time in the searing heat, but bearable.

Just as I have for the last couple days, today I woke up with one agenda on my mind - somehow, somewhere, try to buy some fuel for my car.

It’s hard to believe that fuel would be so scarce in such an oil rich region. With fighting in the south of Iraq continuing and Kurdistan's main provider of refined oil (Petrol) - the Baiji Oil Refinery - still under attack, we are certainly feeling the pinch here in Soran.

Desperate Times Call for Desperate Measures

Why not just hunker down and ride it out, you say? Good point, Turkey has agreed to begin fulfilling Kurdistan’s fuel needs with shipments arriving as early as the end of the week. The only problem is that we need to urgently travel to Erbil to formally apply for our residency visas ASAP. That means we need enough fuel to get there and back, plus a little extra for driving around the city.

So, after getting word that a gas station had opened up for business in a town 20 minutes away, several of us jumped in our cars and raced through the mountain gorge pass that takes you there as though we were in a presidential convoy.

For some it was a suicide mission, with only enough fuel to make it there - failure to find fuel and their car would be spending the night.

Good news... our communications proved reliable. The line was long, but it was moving ever so slowly. My prediction was a 2 hour wait… a long time in the searing heat, but bearable and well worth it.

Sharing Fuel in a Crisis

During the last few days of fuel shortages the police have begun to introduce a rationing policy of 30 liters of fuel per person. In addition to the fuel limit, an odd/even number plate system was operating… and today was my lucky day. It wasn’t until I was on the line that I found out it was the day for cars ending with an even number on the plates. Today I discovered a new appreciation for the number 4.

The Fuel Line Shuffle

So here’s the deal. Once in line the last thing you want to do is to sit in your car waiting to move because it feels like you're roasting in a furnace. Most people get out and find a cool bit of shade, maybe in a shop across the street or backed up against the side of the cliff we were circumnavigating.

As soon as the line begins to move again, everyone jumps back in the cars and inches up a few car lengths before hastily turning off their engines and retreating back into the shade. This process is then repeated until you finally get to the gas station.

Thankfully today was only 40 degrees, with a balmy breeze, putting an end to the previous week of mid 40 degree dry scorchers.

My First Kurdish Language Lesson

What was an even greater blessing was the company I had today. Loqman is a local Kurdish student at the Soran University. I met him on my second trip to Iraq in 2012 and we have stayed in contact through FB ever since. Not only was it nice to have someone to chat with, it was comforting to have someone who spoke English well along for the ride.

Since he was studying English and linguistics at the university I decided to hit him up for my first official Kurdish language lesson. So here I was on the side of a cliff waiting for gas learning my Kurdish numbers and basic greetings - I had a blast.

My Good Friend Loqman & I -- November, 2012

The Gas Station Closes!?!

Some commotion began to stir around noon. By this point about 2 hours of steady progress had passed and we were approaching the final bend in the road before the gas station would be in sight... maybe 70m away.

Please don’t tell me they had run out of fuel!??! It was clear that the gas station had closed and was no longer pumping fuel… but why? Now what!? Besides, this line was two cars wide and I was blocked in even if I wanted to limp home unsuccessfully on my quarter tank of fuel.

Turns out they had closed for lunch and would not be open again until 2:30pm. Really!?! I guess not even a national fuel crisis gets in the way of the traditional 3 hour mid-day lunch/heat break most small businesses enjoy.

We had come so far and waited so long, it seemed worth it to hang out for a few more hours and get the fuel we so desperately needed for our trip to Erbil. With only 40 cars now between us and 30 liters of fuel, Loqman and I decide to lock up our cars and trek into town to grab a bite to eat.

Fancy a Hot Meal?

Thankfully the food stores remain open during the mid-day siesta (which only makes sense). With Loqman’s local knowledge we stumbled into a little kebab and sandwich parlor for some lunch.

It’s worth noting that most Kurdish people do not know what it means to eat a cold meal. All meals are served hot, even sandwiches (pita bread style) are made with hot meat (lamb or chicken) carved from rotating pole. In fact, many old men here could count on one hand the number of cold meals they've eaten in their entire life.

Another Valuable Kurdish Cultural Lesson

In any case, the food was delicious and after deciding to resist the temptation to buy another sandwich we settled the bill. Here is where I learned another valuable Kurdish lesson… things aren’t always as they seem.

As I offered to pay for our yummy meal, the kind server motioned that the payment was not necessary. How nice I thought, but not wanting to take advantage of my “foreigner status” I insisted and handed him the required dinars.

As we walked on, I turned to Loqman and asked if he was really offering the meal for free. “Yes and no” he responded. You see, it is polite for small business owners to refuse payment as a sign of respect. It is equally respectful to insist that you pay and hand over the money (that is unless they continue to refuse payment). This is most common among friends or special guests, but in some cases a regular occurrence for strangers too.

It just goes to show how much there is to learn in another culture in even the most simple things in life like buying lunch.

Celebrating the Little Things

I have to admit, one thing I am beginning to appreciate since I’ve been here is how cheap some things are. After drinking around 10 bottles of water in just 3 hours it’s nice to know that it only costs me around 20c a bottle - now that's a bargain. In fact, food in general is so much cheaper than the USA or Australia. I was able to pick up a kilo of delicious cherries today for around $3.50.

Hanging with the Guys

We were edging towards 2:30pm and so Loqman and I headed back to the gas station to see if they were really going to open back up. You just never know and it's not worth getting your hopes up too high here.

We saw a small crowd of guys hanging around the station and so we made our way over to find out if there was any update on the situation. Everyone seemed optimistic and so we stayed to join in the social gathering and make the most of the shade.

I decided to put my new Kurdish greetings to the test and had a great time chatting with some of the locals. The Kurdish people are a very warm and hospitable people, and it is great to know that for the most part, Westerners are very welcome in these parts of Iraq.

The Police Arrive

Suddenly several police officers arrived and in the process stir up a little commotion, but it’s a good sign. The police have been posted at most gas stations to ensure that the people obey the rationing rules that are in place.

Back in our cars we go to resume the fuel line shuffle that had come to a jolting halt a couple hours ago. This time things moved very quickly, it’s amazing what a little lunch break can do for work efficiency over here.

Victorious.

We finally made it to the pump and boy did I feel great after getting my fill of fuel. I drove home like a warrior returning valiantly from battle, victorious in my quest to find fuel. What was also rather pleasant was the price tag — only 45 cents/liter. i reckon some people in Australia might just consider waiting in line this long for a $13 fuel stop!

As I raced back through the mountain gorge pass and into the beautiful Soran valley it felt good to be home and with a 3/4 tank of gas to get us to Erbil and back this week.

From the Fuel line to the Propane Line

After picking up a few necessary items in town (diapers & biscuits) I decided to drive past the propane gas tank shop to see if there were open.

You see, the fuel shortage was beginning to affect other supplies with trucks and other vehicles no longer making deliveries of certain things… and propane gas was one of them. Propane bottles are essential here for things like oven cooking and heating etc.

Fortunately there were a few gas bottles lined up outside the closed shop as some men kindly waved me over. I was told that the owner would be back in 5 minutes to open up and exchange the empty bottles for full ones.

Feeling Lucky

I had the propane bottles in the back of my car and so I jumped out and promptly joined the gas bottle line. By now I was feeling lucky with my 4 bottles of gas. That was until the police showed up to say that the limited supply of propane gas meant a 1 bottle per person rationing policy was in place.

Out of nowhere, my friend Billy (who we are staying with until our house is ready) rolled up and so just like that our allotment doubled and we would now be heading home with 2 full bottles of propane gas

Six Hours Well Spent

And so after returning home having spent a total of 6 hours waiting on lines for fuel and propane gas, I was truly thankful that my efforts were fruitful.

Having learned many more lessons along the way, today proved to be a great insight into what life is like when there is a war raging on in your backyard.

The people here are taking things extremely well, there is no real panic or cause for alarm. Of course everyone is desperate to get the tanks filled with fuel, but for the most part they adjust well to hardship here.

The Police Strictly Enforcing the 1 x Bottle Rationing Policy

An Alarming Comparison

It brings me back to when I was in New York during Hurricane Sandy. Back then we experienced a similar fuel crisis.. I think I waited 3 hours on line at 4am to fill up my car with fuel.

The scene however was much less civil. Maybe it was partly because I was in the Bronx, but from what I saw and heard people would constantly cut lines and arguments and fights were surfacing everywhere. Let's just say I felt a lot less safe that morning than I did today.

It's days like this that certainly make you wonder how people and places are really going to handle it should tougher times come there way.

Well that just about does it for today, I hope you enjoyed the read (if you made it this far), and do spare a thought for me next time you fill up your car with fuel.

Thanks for journeying with us - Tim

Tim Buxton 14/6/14 Tim Buxton 14/6/14

Read Our Latest eNewsletter... A Wild First Week in Iraq

Check out our first eNewsletter from our home in Iraq..! Thanks for all who are praying for the situation in Iraq and sending us emails & messages. We really appreciate your support! Much love from all of us - Tim, Sarah, Elliana, Charlie & Lily xox

Tim Buxton 16/12/13 Tim Buxton 16/12/13

Charlie on the Move in the Kurdistan Prayer Room

During our family visit to Iraq earlier this year Charlie and I spent some quality time together in the prayer room of Billy and Dawn Ray's home. It truly is a wonderful place to come to prayer and dwell in God's presence. It is situated on the roof floor of their home and opens up to a stunning panoramic view of the city of Soran. It's simply the perfect place to seek God in prayer for the people of Kurdistan. Visiting teams will often spend hours in this room, storming heaven and with intercession, worship and thanksgiving! God is moving in Northern Iraq... if you have some time, why not take a few moments and pray for Iraq. Pray for strength and provision for the workers there. Pray for the ministry of World Orphans in Soran. And pray for the Gospel to be firmly established in this distant land. Download a Prayer Guide for the Kurds here.